Perfect Paris :: A Few Wonderful Days in the City of Light

Jason Salzenstein READ TIME: 17 MIN.

Most people think of Europe as a "big" destination- somewhere you go when you have a 10-day or two-week vacation. Living on the East Coast however, getting to Paris is fairly easy; get on a flight at night, pop a sleeping pill, and wake up in the "city of light." If you've got an extra-long weekend or a short week, Paris is the perfect pick.

Before You Go

Even more so than with other cities, I've found that one way to make a trip to Paris much easier is to plan ahead. You don't have to be completely OCD and map-out every hour of every day (although I do... and my traveling companions hate me for it), but having a general roadmap definitely helps things run a bit more smoothly. Obviously you'll book your hotel well before you get there, and I also recommend arranging your airport transfers before leaving as well. I also recommend making reservations for any restaurants that you know you'd like to eat at before leaving as well; in Paris, top restaurants are often booked weeks in advance and unless you speak excellent French and can impress the maitre d', you won't get in.

When researching hotels and restaurants, pick up a copy of the classic go-to guide, Michelin's
It's often said that "The Devil's in the details," and there are very few times when this is more evident than when planning travel. This is especially true for Paris. Taking care of air and hotel is only the first- and usually the easiest- step. Getting from the airport to the hotel- and then planning the rest of your trip- can be quite a task. For those looking to make things much easier, Discover France
can set you up with airport transports (in everything from a standard 4-door sedan to a stretch limo), museum and metro passes, tickets to shows (including Lido and the Moulin Rouge), and much more. You simply tell them what you want to do and they work with you to plan everything. You receive a package well before you leave with everything you need to enjoy the "City of Light'" in style and stress-free.

Where to Stay

What to Do

The Eiffel Tower... and shopping!

You'll never run out of things to do in Paris. Whether your desires lean towards culture, shopping, food or history, you could spend years here and never run out of interesting things to do. The diversity of offerings in this metropolitan mecca is one of the reasons why millions of people go to Paris each year, making it the most-visited city on the planet.

Obviously you're going to want to see the major attractions- the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame, etc. I recommend that you do as much of this as you can on foot, and also that you plan on doing some sightseeing at night, when Paris comes alive in an entirely different way. The direct "line" from the Louvre, through the Tuilleries gardens, past Place de la Concord, and all the way down the Champs Elys?es to the Arc is a wonderful walk both day and night- just make sure you're wearing comfortable shoes. Don't be afraid to leave for dinner, the museum, or shopping a bit early and get off the Metro one or two stops shy of your destination- the neighborhood maps in the Metro are fantastic and easy to follow so you shouldn't get lost, and you'll see much more of the city this way.

Shopping

Shopping in Paris is a sport, and- in my opinion- better than any other city in the world. For those who love to shop, Paris is perfection. There are more shops in Paris than you could ever visit in a month, so I won't even begin to tell you everywhere to go- there are entire books on that subject, and if you're a hardcore shopper, I recommend getting one- and studying it- before you leave. They'll not only give you the run-down of neighborhoods, shopping centers, etc., but also hours, phone numbers, websites and more.

For die-hard fans, there are a few things to keep in mind that will make shopping much easier. Unlike U.S. malls, if you're interested in getting better service (i.e. to avoid the "snobbery" that Americans so often misinterpret as rudeness) and to be taken seriously, you need to look the part. If you think you can stroll into the Gucci boutique on rue Montaigne in cargo shorts, a tee shirt and six-year-old Reeboks, think again (unless you're Marc Jacobs, then you're fine...). In Paris, it's always Fashion Week, and the boutiques are the runways.

Something for Everyone

I recommend starting your journey at The Grands Magasins. The mother-of-all-department-stores, Printemps is nearly as large and just as luxurious. Inside both you'll find everything from designer boutiques and brand name fashion to fabulous home goods, gourmet markets, and everything in between. Plan on stopping back at your hotel after your shopping spree, and definitely set aside plenty of time.

Luxury

If you're looking for high-end, you'll want to hit both the Champs Elys?es and neighboring rue Montaigne. This is where Patsy and Edina would be found, lost among Gucci, YSL, Chanel, Prada, Dior, and the most fabulous boutique in Paris, the Louis Vuitton flagship. No matter if you can afford a bag or not, you'll want to stop by this store for the architecture, design, and retail insanity alone. Packed with people from the moment they open their doors until closing time, the LV "boutique" is the ultimate luxury experience. Pick out the latest must-have handbag, design a traveling case to be custom made (bring the Amex Black), or convince a salesperson to show you the gallery on the top floor- just make sure you don't miss this store.

Shoppers at the Louis Vuitton on the Champs Elys?es will find a few items exclusive to the flagship boutique as well as a slew of looky-loo tourists, glamorous French divas, old-money wives, and plenty of security. If you're planning on actually buying and you go late in the day, be prepared to wait; lines can sometimes be more than an hour long. (Although if you find the right person and flirt a bit, you may be able to cut in front of the Japanese girls buying 16 handbags. Bitches.)

The Marais- Paris' gayborhood- offers plenty of trendy clothing and home stores, alongside an eclectic mix of restaurants and bars. Don't miss my new favorite store, Fleux (48 rue Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie) for the hottest in European d?cor and design. After the Marais, head over to another fabulous street- Fauberg St. Honor? (which becomes St. Honor?) to hit-up the ever trendy and super-fab Colette (213 rue St. Honor?), then continue down to the designer boutiques including Gucci, YSL, Prada, etc.

Left Bank, we love you...

Museums

If it's your first time in Paris, obviously you're going to want to hit-up the museums. From the Louvre to the Rodin, d'Orsay to Versailles (which is clearly much more than a museum), you could literally spend weeks in Paris visiting museums alone.

If you've only got a few days however, and want to see something a bit less touristy and more specialized, I recommend hitting the smaller museums. One of my favorites-
I also love the ; the artwork is highlighted by the incredible setting, a giant- and beautiful- 18th century mansion. You'll also want to be sure to see the newly reopened , which holds Monet's most famous works as well as those by art giants including C?zanne, Renoir, Picasso, Matisse, Modigliani and others.

Of course there's the , just down the street from the Moulin Rouge, and fans of Marie Antoinette should make sure to visit St. Chappelle and the Conciergerie (Ile de la Cit?), and die-hards will want to head north (about 20 minutes on the Metro) to St. Denis, where she and Louis were finally laid to rest alongside the kings and queens that came before them.

After the Louvre (of course you'll go- just plan ahead; not every room is open every day...), stop by L'Artisan Parfumeur for the best perfume in all of Paris- and fabulous gifts. It's unlikely that and your friends have seen or heard of it, and the store, the salesgirls, and the fragrances are fabulous.

Where to Eat

One of the best things to do in Paris is to eat. If you don't know that Paris has some of the best food in the world, you've either been in a coma for your entire life, or you're Anna Nicole Smith. Be sure to plan enough time for your meals- especially dinner. I can't stress this enough; three hours at a nice restaurant is not unheard of- in fact, it's fairly common. There are too many great restaurants in Paris for me to even begin a list, so consult your Michelin Guide before heading out. Having said that, there are a few casual places that I never miss when I'm in the City of Light.

Fajitas (15 rue Dauphine in the 6th) is a fantastic little Tex-Mex place run by an American woman and her Mexican husband- love it. Curieux Spaghetti Bar is just as it sounds- simple and delish (14 rue Saint Merri in the Marais- expect a bit of attitude.) For fantastic Italian, Il Cardinale near Place des Vosges is wonderful, although make sure you inquire about the price of the suggested bottle of wine before accepting it- many a tourist (yours truly included) has been screwed over by the "gracious" hostess. Veggies will love La Victoire Supreme du Coeur (41 rue des Bourdonnais, 1st) and Piccolo Teatro in the Marais- famous for their gratins.

Nightlife

Nightlife in Paris is always hot, and offers a smorgasbord of opportunities for travelers of every persuasion and interest. There are a few places that have stood the test of time, and dozens of bars and clubs with rotating themes depending on the season and night of the week.

The easiest way to find out what's going on is to cozy-up to some hot French man in a bar and get the inside scoop. Short of that however, pick up the latest copy of TETU magazine (any major bookstore or newsstand) and look for the l'agenda de TETU inside. This nightlife guide covers not only Paris, but every other major city in France. A quick flip-through will give you a great idea of what's happening. Don't worry- you don't need to be able to red French; a picture's worth a thousand words...

Open Caf? (17 rue des Archives, 4th) is centrally located, and a good place to start, as is Le Cox (next door), which has a happy hour from 7-9. For the young and fashionable crowd, Banana Caf? (13 rue de la Ferronnerie, 1st) is a big draw, although not before 10 or 11. Afterwards, you're guaranteed to find some action at Le D?p?t, a gay bar, nightclub, and "hard" bar (i.e. the dark back room leaves little to the imaginations...). Finally, no visit to gay Paris is complete without a night spent dancing at Le Queen (102 Avenue des Champs Elys?es). The best nights are Mondays (disco revival) and Saturdays (techno).

If you're not interested in bars or clubs, but appreciate camp classics, I highly recommend both the Lido. These two famous shows have been drawing-in foreigners in Paris for years and it's easy to see why. The magnificent costumes, singing, dancing, and sex appeal- for men and women of any persuasion- are sexy, classic and a lot of fun. Make reservations online or book through your hotel or Discover France.

Helpful hints

If you haven't visited Paris, getting around is easy via the Metro. Buy a weekend, week, or 10-day pass and plan on using it as much as possible- not only will it get you where you want to go quickly, you'll also see things you'd miss in a taxi. I recommend walking as much as possible for the same reason; Paris is a city best seen on foot.

If you want to keep in touch with friends and family back home, make sure that your mobile phone will work overseas, that you're signed up for the correct plan, and that it won't cost you $14/minute. A great alternative is to buy a

When you go:

Banana Caf?: www.bananacafeparis.com
Le Bon March?: www.lebonmarche.fr
Chahan: Richard Makin-Poole
info@chahan.com
Colette: www.colette.fr
Discover France: www.discoverfrance.com
Le Cox: www.coxbar.fr
Curieux: www.curieuxspag.com
Fajitas: www.fajitas-paris.com
Fleux: www.fleux.com
Frederic Malle: www.editionsparfums.com
Galeries Lafayette: www.galerieslafayette.com
The Hilton Arc de Triomphe: www.hilton-paris.com/arcdetriomphe
The Hilton Eiffel Tower: www.hilton-paris.com/paris
Karma, Rykiel Body & Soul: www.soniarykiel.com
Louis Vuitton: www.louisvuitton.com
Mus?e Carnavalet: www.carnavalet.paris.fr
Mus?e Jacquemart-Andr?: www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
Mus?e de L'Orangerie: www.musee-orangerie.fr
A La Petite Chaise: www.alapetitechaise.fr
Le Prince Jardinier: www.princejardinier.fr
Printemps' target='_blank'> www.printemps.com Sally Perrin at French Finds: www.frenchfinds.com


by Jason Salzenstein

Twitter :: JasonSalz

Jason Salzenstein is a writer and editor; design, image, and marketing consultant; and professional shopper. His work has appeared in numerous national and international publications and he has clients around the world. For more information :: www.JasonSalzenstein.com

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