Paris, Je t'Aime :: What's new & hot in the city of light...

Jason Salzenstein READ TIME: 14 MIN.

Paris is a fabulous city. Of course for gay and lesbian travelers, it's also one of the biggest clich?s in the world- I mean, just thinking about being there brings up images of sitting at a little outdoor cafe smoking Galoise cigarettes and drinking espresso, with fabulous (reusable) shopping bags filled with baguettes, cheese and wine at your feet while little poodles prance up and down the street. And the best thing? That's exactly how Paris is in spring and summer. (Well, sans the poodles perhaps...)

And that's why I love it.

Paris is the perfect combination of old and new. On one hand, you've got the architecture, history, and traditions going back hundreds of years. I mean, you could spend an entire week exploring beauty that existed before our country even had a name! On the flip side, Paris is also at the cutting edge of modern design, technology and thought. True, they missed the chance to be one of the first major players to elect a female president, but hey, we all make mistakes. Perhaps they held back in order to give us that honor.

Paris is my favorite city in the entire world; whenever I go to France- no matter when I go or what my ultimate destination is- I spend at least a few days in the City of Light. And although the dollar is weak, there are still deals to be found; quite a few in fact. Plan ahead, use the web, and make smart choices. You'll find that you can do Paris as easily as New York. Plus, it's so much more glamorous (with better shopping!).

There's always something new and fabulous in Paris; museums, shops, hotels, exhibitions, and things to do. Of course, there are also dozens of fabulous things that have been there for years. Here's a little peek at what's hot in Paris right now- so get planning!

Sleep

In the last two years, Paris has wholeheartedly embraced small designer boutique hotels, and we're loving it. The perfect contrast to the architecture and history of the city, these modern marvels of design are bright, brilliant, and refreshing. With clean, simple lines, luxury linens and amenities, and staffs that are ready to cater to your every need, they're not always the least expensive option, but they are worth it.

Murano Urban Resort

True to the old-meets-new style of Paris, walking into the Murano Urban Resort can be a bit startling, not simply because the lobby is blindingly white, but because the fa?ade of the hotel is classic Parisian, and it's surrounded by Belle ?poque architecture on a very nondescript street, blending into the surrounding 3rd Arrondissements perfectly. The fa?ade, however, is about the only thing classic about the hotel.

"Fabulous design" doesn't begin to describe the incredibly chic, sophisticated, and stylized interiors. Stepping into the elevator is like jumping between the folds of one of Cher's early Mackie creations- dark, red, and glittery. Cool urban modernism and high-tech style combine to create an ambiance that has to be experienced to be understood. The 52 rooms and suites are contemporary, furnished floor-to-ceiling in white, and decked-out with the most modern touches, including keyless doors (they use fingerprint scanning technology), lighting that can be adjusted to match your mood, and 24-hour room service that's a far cry from the standard burger and fries (smoked salmon with a potato waffle, lettuce soup, or limoncello minestrone anyone?).

Standard rooms are good sized, and if the devil's in the details, Satan lives here. From the double-layered sheer drapes (one crinkly square lattice, the other a luxurious faux ostrich feather) to the slate and river rock bathroom, the dual modern pedestal sinks to the quirky little amenities, every detail has been attended to. The high-end toiletry products from Anne Semonin are glorious, but that's just a warm-up for the black toilet paper, "sensual eye mask for lovers," and range of branded- and just plain cool- products all available for your use and purchase.

If you stay at the Murano, don't rush out too early; breakfasts here are lavish and fabulous...

Hotel Bel Ami

Slightly smaller, but just as extraordinary, the Hotel Bel Ami tops my list of Parisian hotels when it comes to service, hands-down. The staff- especially the charming concierge and his dedicated team- are the perfect blend of friendly, professional, sophisticated and knowledgeable. The Four Seasons George V has nothing on these guys.

The Bel Ami is a boutique designer hotel, but the rooms here- while still very contemporary- are warmer and more colorful than the Murano. Of course the linens are luxe, bathrooms large and gorgeous, and the amenities high-end. I also happen to think that the Bel Ami offers one of the best simple self-serve breakfasts in the city, in a dining room that could just as easily be in LA, New York, or Milan.

Another thing that sets the hotel apart from others is the fact that they're always changing things to keep the d?cor fresh and interesting for repeat visitors... like me! They also have a new fitness room and spa, with three treatment rooms for massage and skincare services.

And while I stated earlier that you'd usually pay more for modern boutique hotels, this is one case when that's not true. The Bel Ami is extremely reasonable for Parisian hotels, especially considering the service, style, and location (they're just down the street from Louis Vuitton and Dior). They also offer fabulous packages- and you know I love packages...

Castille

EAT

Le Diane

Paris is known for culinary magnificence, which makes it difficult to decide between "old" favorites and new treats. I usually do a mix of both to satisfy all of my urges.

Two years ago I had the most fabulous dinner of my life at the Fouquet's Le Diane to be exact.

The newest restaurant at the Hotel Fouquet's Barriere, Le Diane is the definition of modern refined elegance in dining. It was here, on a Friday night, where I had the most magnificent meal in years, served by the most gorgeous, perfectly trained waiters I've ever seen. The food was divine, the ambiance perfection, and the meal a truly religious experience consisting of one fabulous gourmet course after another. Just when you thought that there was no way the meal could get better, it slapped you across the face with another little taste of heaven.

The service here is better than anything you've seen on film or read about it books. I'm guessing that the staff is telepathic because they seemed to communicate psychically. The presentations and serving of dishes is magnificent, choreographed like a fine ballet. Don't skip any courses; go for broke. I would have gladly sacrificed multiple small children in exchange for the cheese course, and dessert consisted of five unique gravity-defying lollipops that surely came from the Wizard of Oz himself.

This is not an everyday restaurant, and the prices reflect that. A meal for two with wine will set you back about $500, but it's well worth it, to be sure. Plus, the new president of France ate here on his first night in office, so you know you're in good company!

Shopping

Shopping in Paris is world class. Whether you're looking for tea, designer luggage, or whips and chains, they've got it all. The Marais offers a great blend fashions from local talent, chic home d?cor, designer fashion, and gay bookstores, music stores and adult stores. Of course the famous Champs Elys?es- a tourist mecca- is a blend of big chains (Virgin, The Disney Store), fabulous designer boutique (Louis Vuitton, Gucci) and restaurants. Here are a few new and noteworthy spots:

Colette

By now a staple of fashionable Parisian life,
Palais de Tokyo

The only museum in Paris to stay open until midnight, the also has one of the most fabulous gift shops around (it rivals MOMA in NY). The caf? is also delish, so if you've got time, stop for a bite.

Ladur?e

Not to be missed, sells cakes, cookies and biscuits that are almost too pretty to eat. Stop by here on your last day in the city for fabulous gifts to bring home; the boxes look like a million bucks.

The Grands Magasins

Although certainly not new, the big department stores in Paris take shopping very seriously and are therefore constantly growing, changing, and reinventing their experiences. (And trust me, shopping here is definitely an experience.)

The mother-of-all-department-stores, will blow you away. Taking up more than 15 floors spread over five blocks in three separate buildings (men's, women's and home), you could literally spend days shopping at this store alone. Just next door, is nearly as large and just as luxurious. Inside both you'll find everything from designer boutiques and brand name fashion to fabulous home goods, gourmet markets, and everything in between.

On the Left Bank lies the designer delight, Le Bon March?. Full of high-end styles and home d?cor, you'll also want to make sure you save room in your arms to carry the fabulous food on offer at La Grand Epicerie de Paris on the ground floor. Plan on stopping back at your hotel after your shopping spree, and definitely set aside plenty of time.

Not to be missed

Museums

The newly reopened , is not only architecturally important, but also holds one of the most incredible and moving artistic presentation ever created: Monet's Water Lilies. The life-size paintings are hung in the round, which allows you to fully take-in the breadth of the work, and often leads to long spells of contemplation. Save the best for last though, and start with the other works, also impressive and full of big names. If you're feeling a bit philosophical when you leave, take a stroll around the gardens of the Tuileries, taking in the gardens, statues, and passing Frenchmen...

Paris' newest museum, (pictured), is dedicated to the indigenous art of Africa, Oceania, Asia and the Americas, all contained in an incredibly modern four-building complex near the Eiffel Tower. The "hanging garden" wall is incredible, as is the rooftop terrace.

If you've only got a few days and want to see something a bit less touristy, I recommend hitting the smaller museums. One of my favorites- - tells the history of Paris through it's architecture, arts and personalities. Don't miss Marie Antoinette's shoes- they're the tiniest things you've ever seen!

I also love the Mus?e Jacquemart-Andr?. Once a private residence of a fabulous Parisian society couple, it's now one of the best small museums in town. The incredible setting- a large architecturally significant 18th century mansion- makes the fabulous artwork seem that much better.

Nightlife

Nightlife in Paris is always hot, and offers myriad opportunities for travelers of every persuasion and interest. There are dozens of bars and clubs, many with rotating themes depending on the season and night of the week.

The easiest way to find out what's going on is to cozy-up to some hot French man in a bar and get the inside scoop. Short of that, pick up the latest copy of TETU magazine (any major bookstore or newsstand) and look for the l'agenda de TETU insert. This nightlife guide covers not only Paris, but every other major city in France. A quick flip-through will let you know exactly what's happening in the city on any given night, as well as special parties and events. Don't worry- you don't need to be able to read French- a picture's worth a thousand words...

Open Caf? (17 rue des Archives, 4th) is centrally located, and a good place to start, as is Le Cox (next door), which has a happy hour from 7-9. For the young and fashionable crowd, Banana Caf? (13 rue de la Ferronnerie, 1st) is a big draw, although not before 10 or 11. Afterwards, you're guaranteed to find some action at Le D?p?t, a gay bar, nightclub, and "hard" bar (i.e. the dark back room leaves little to the imagination...). Finally, no visit to gay Paris is complete without a night spent dancing at Le Queen (102 Avenue des Champs Elys?es). The best nights are Mondays (disco revival) and Saturdays (techno).

When you go:

Banana Caf?: www.bananacafeparis.com
Le Bon March?: www.lebonmarche.fr
Colette: www.colette.fr
Discover France: www.discoverfrance.com
Le Cox: www.coxbar.fr
Curieux: www.curieuxspag.com
Fajitas: www.fajitas-paris.com
Fleux: www.fleux.com
Galeries Lafayette: www.galerieslafayette.com
The Hilton Arc de Triomphe: www.hilton-paris.com/arcdetriomphe
The Hilton Eiffel Tower: www.hilton-paris.com/paris
Karma, Rykiel Body & Soul: www.soniarykiel.com
Louis Vuitton: www.louisvuitton.com
Maison de la France: www.FranceGuide.com
Mus?e Carnavalet: www.carnavalet.paris.fr
Mus?e Jacquemart-Andr?: www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com
Mus?e de L'Orangerie: www.musee-orangerie.fr
Printemps: www.printemps.com


by Jason Salzenstein

Twitter :: JasonSalz

Jason Salzenstein is a writer and editor; design, image, and marketing consultant; and professional shopper. His work has appeared in numerous national and international publications and he has clients around the world. For more information :: www.JasonSalzenstein.com

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